I met my friend Kurt Blair in Zermatt on July 10th and we got ourselves to Hörnli Hut the same day. We were concentrated on attempting the Zmuttgrat the following day but the mountain guides we met at the hut were not too encouraging about the idea telling that the warm summer had made the start of the route very dangerous. We decided to find it out ourselves and woke up early and headed to the foot of the North face. Even though it was still zero hours the weather was warm and we had quite a shower of rocks falling too close by. Having estimated the situation "slightly uncomfortable" we changed our plan and headed for the Hörnli ridge which is considered the normal route. We simul-climbed quickly to the Solvay emergency hut which is located at 4000 meters. The wind got very strong at this point so we roped up for the remaining bit. Many of the parties turned around at this point propably because of the wind. Otherwise the weather was great. The Matterhorn usually covers up in thich clouds after noon but this time it did not seem to happen so we were lucky to enjoy the view over Zermatt and Monte Rosa massif. We reached the summit after 5,5hrs of climbing but. After a long and slow descent we missed the last cable car so we needed to walk all the way to Zermatt.