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Weisshorn East Ridge | 5
- 8.7.2006 (Solo)
Weisshorn has got to be one of the most
beautiful mountains in the Alps and I had had
my eyes on it for years. I hiked to Weisshorn
Hut on July 5th and was surprised to see that
it was not yet guarded. I wanted to climb the
central couloir on the NE face so I had my bivy
gear with me for camping by the foot of the
route. The weather however did not agree so
I needed to forget my original plan and head
for the normal route when the rain would stop.
During a rainy reconnoissance on 6th I noted
that the couloir was very prone to avalanches
with loose snow sliding down it constantly.
The rain finally stopped at 1 a.m. on 8th when
I launched my summit bid. The snow couloir leading
to the ridge was fast and easy to climb so I
reached the rocky crest to greet the sun rising
over the sea of clouds. The final snow ridge
which usually would be trivial was now pure
ice on which front-pointing was slow and exiting.
Half-way the snow ridge the route goes over
a huge crevasse which caused me quite a lot
of trouble. I ended up crawling over it after
I had spent almost 30 minutes finding the place
where the snow bridge seemed strongest. After
the crevassed section it was just an easy walk
up to the summit rocks from where I had great
views over the Bishorn where the climbers were
just reaching the high point. I felt happy for
making it despite the difficult conditions.
I retraced my steps back to the hut and continued
to Randa. That made a good 17,5 hr day which
I concluded at North Wall Bar!













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