Weisshorn East Ridge | 5 - 8.7.2006 (Solo)

Weisshorn has got to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps and I had had my eyes on it for years. I hiked to Weisshorn Hut on July 5th and was surprised to see that it was not yet guarded. I wanted to climb the central couloir on the NE face so I had my bivy gear with me for camping by the foot of the route. The weather however did not agree so I needed to forget my original plan and head for the normal route when the rain would stop. During a rainy reconnoissance on 6th I noted that the couloir was very prone to avalanches with loose snow sliding down it constantly. The rain finally stopped at 1 a.m. on 8th when I launched my summit bid. The snow couloir leading to the ridge was fast and easy to climb so I reached the rocky crest to greet the sun rising over the sea of clouds. The final snow ridge which usually would be trivial was now pure ice on which front-pointing was slow and exiting. Half-way the snow ridge the route goes over a huge crevasse which caused me quite a lot of trouble. I ended up crawling over it after I had spent almost 30 minutes finding the place where the snow bridge seemed strongest. After the crevassed section it was just an easy walk up to the summit rocks from where I had great views over the Bishorn where the climbers were just reaching the high point. I felt happy for making it despite the difficult conditions. I retraced my steps back to the hut and continued to Randa. That made a good 17,5 hr day which I concluded at North Wall Bar!

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