Arkistot julkaisijan mukaan

torstai 2. huhtikuun 2015 18:28

Kattava selonteko Annapurnan tapahtumista / A comprehensive account of the events on Annapurna

Retki-lehden tänään julkaistu uutinen kertoo Samulin huipulle noususta, viimeisistä hetkistä, tapahtumista ennen putoamista ja oikaisee tähän asti liikkeellä olleet osittain virheelliset tiedot.

An article published today by Retki magazine sheds light on Samuli Mansikka’s journey to Annapurna’s summit, his last moments and events before the fall.

The article is only available in finnish. Rough English translation / summary of the events:

Samuli flew to Annapurna BC on the 5th of March. He had aqcuired the Basecamp service from a company called Dreamers Destination which was taking 12 climbers to the Annapurna summit.

The conditions on the mountain were difficult and the amount of snow considerable. On the 17th Samuli tweeted climbing from BC to C2 (5700m) was ”pure hell” because of it.

Samuli left C4 for the summit on the early hours of the 24th of March. He was climbing the mountain as an independent mountaineer like he had done on many other mountains before. He didn’t have a guide or support. He was however climbing with a group of Dreamers Destination clients that day. For a big part of the day Samuli was the first person going up breaking trail in deep snow. Advancing was slow and since the summit wasn’t on sight by 2pm the leader of the Dreamers Destination group decided that the group turns back down.

Based on the information Samuli had gathered by studying photos of the route and interviewing people who had been to the summit he knew it was near. He asked the group to wait for a moment, climbed a bit higher and informed the others that the summit was on sight. Samuli was the first to reach the summit – also all others reached it.

He was also the first one to start making the way back down. It’s unknown if Pemba Sherpa followed Samuli but at some point he caught up with him. No one saw how or in which conditions the fall happened. The Dreamers Destination group detected the victims on their way down – they were lower in roughly 6700 meters. The group made an alert and resque preparations were started. Since no signs of life were detected the resque mission was called off. The bodies are on a mountainside, not on a crevasse.

On the 28th of March Samuli’s good friend and colleague Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies organized a mission (Nepalese government wasn’t involved) to recover the bodies by using a helicopter. The bodies were located and an attempt to reach them by a long-line technique was made. Unfortunately the mission had to be aborted because it was endangering the safety of the resquers. Mountaineers understand the risks that are related to the sport and wouldn’t want others to risk their lives trying to rescue or recover them.

The purpose of this post is to correct the partially misleading information that has been available so far.

torstai 26. maaliskuun 2015 10:38

Samuli Mansikan menehtyminen vahvistettu / Loss of Samuli Mansikka confirmed

Nepalin turismiministeriö on julkaissut lehdistötiedotteen, joka vahvistaa Samuli Mansikan ja kansainvälisen ryhmän sherpana toimineen Pemba Sherpan menehtymisen. Ilmoituksen mukaan he joutuivat kadoksiin noin 7100 metrissä 24. maaliskuuta ja heidän ruumiinsa on löydetty 7000 metristä eilen (25. maaliskuuta).

Lähde: Altitude Pakistan

Nepalese Tourism Ministry released a press statement confirming the unfortunate loss of Samuli Mansikka and Pemba Sherpa. Report says that they went missing at around 7100m on March 24th and their bodies have been recovered from 7000m, yesterday (March 25th).

Source: Altitude Pakistan

keskiviikko 25. maaliskuun 2015 17:10

Samuli Mansikka on kateissa

Samuli Mansikka on kateissa – asiaan liittyy toistaiseksi paljon epäselvyyttä. Lisätiedotus hoidetaan näiden sivujen kautta.

keskiviikko 30. heinäkuun 2014 11:07

Samuli summits K2!

Samuli has on morning of July 27th reached the summit of K2! At 8611-meters K2 is World’s second tallest mountain and considered as one of the most difficult and dangerous.
Samuli started the final section of the summit-push at Camp 4 at 7950-meters at 9:30pm on 26th. He reached the main summit at 8:15am. No bottled oxygen was used at any part of the expedition. Also, Samuli had no climbing partners or hired staff to assist him above basecamp at 5200-meters. Details on blog.


Samuli saavutti K2:sen huipun 27.7.! 8611-metrinen K2 sijaitsee Pakistanissa ja on maailman toiseksi korkein vuori. Sitä pidetään yhtenä maailman vaikeimmista ja vaarallisimmista vuorista.
Samuli aloitti huippuyrityksen viimeisen etapin nelosleiristä (7950m.) 26.7. klo 21:30 ja saavutti vuoren päähuipun aamulla 8:15. Pullotettua happea ei käytetty missään vaiheessa matkaa. Lisäksi Samuli kiipesi perusleirin (5200m.) yläpuolella yksin.
Yksityiskohdat blogissa (englanniksi).

sunnuntai 20. heinäkuun 2014 13:11

Rotations on K2

Until now I have completed my necessary acclimatizing and rotations on K2’s Abruzzi Ridge and I hear teams are starting to look at suitable summit dates according to their forecasts. I have spent a night at Camp 3 (7450m) at highest which should give me adequate acclimatizing for attempt on the peak’s 8611-meter summit.

I of course had slight doubts about switching over from Broad Peak. K2 is notorious for being one of the World’s most dangerous mountains if not the most so. Avalanches, rockfalls and sudden storms have taken toll on climbers attempting the peak over it’s history. When compare the number of casualties related to number of summits this certainly is one of the most dangerous places on this planet. I did not feel comfortable on the mountain as I arrived at it’s base on July 5th.


On my two rotations up to highcamps I started to get a feel of the mountain. Apparently the conditions are fairly good this year and my take on the mountain has altered. All the time I have the awareness brought by knowledge over the numerous accidents they’ve had here but still, I have in fact felt safe and comfortable. There’s been no avalanches on or close to route. I have not seen many rockfalls and also I have been able to quickly retreat from the mountain if the weather’s started to turn worse. In a way I have greatly enjoyed climbing the ”mountain of mountains”.

The abruzzi Ridge differs greatly from all the other 8000’ers normal routes. It is steep, mixed, rocky, complex and offers fine and enjoyable climbing in places. The crux pitches of House’s Chimney and the Black Pyramid are World’s mountaineering classics. Highcamps are stunning giving splendid views over Concordia and Godwin-Austin glaciers.
Close to Camp 3 (7450m.) you move to a different terrain as the ridge slightly flattens and widens out to form the Shoulder. Here you have views North to China as well as to many more peaks including the Gasherbrums.


I have one more rotation to go to reach for the top. After a long period of heavy snowfall weather today started to get much better. I hear teams are starting to look at summit dates after 25th or 26th. This means I would tag along and hopefully start my summit attempt very soon.
I did not set up Camp 1 (6200m.) but will climb direct from Basecamp (5200m.) to my Camp 2 which I set up at 6700m below House’s Chimney. Next stage is to Camp 3 at 7450m from where it is a short, but strenuous climb to Shoulder at 7950m. Climb to Camp 4 is what I expect to be the hardest as I will be carrying a complete camping set-up as well as all the summit-gear and do that at extreme altitude with very little oxygen in the air.
From Camp 4 the summit-push is started late in the evening. First sections goes over a vast snowfield to base of so called ”bottleneck-couloir”. This can be considered as the single most dangerous part of the whole climb as you are climbing up a narrow funnel with a massive hanging glacier looming above. One can only hope the glacier sticks there solid long enough for you to climb the couloir and finally get aside at the ”bottleneck traverse”. After ”bottleneck traverse” you climb the steep snow slopes up towards the summit and hopefully, reach it in the morning.

During my summit attempt I will be sending daily tweets at ! Please follow my climb on World’s 2nd tallest mountain – ”Mountain on mountains”!