Ganesh 1, Tsum-Valley, Nepal. Oct 20th – Nov 23rd 2013.

GANESH 1, NEPAL , 7420 m.
20.10. – 23.11.2012

Altitude Junkies team attempted to find a new route from Nepal side of Ganesh 1 in late autumn 2012. Expedition was lead by Phil Crampton and assisted by Samuli Mansikka.
Despite of scouting several options the team was not able to find a safe route to higher than 5700 meters on this 7420 meter tall mountain. The team came across with extremely dangerous amounts of rockfall and avalanches. Maybe some peaks just are not meant to be climbed.

The expedition was however a very enjoyable experience in a very beautiful and remote setting.

Find Phil Crampton’s dispatches here!

Phil Crampton – UK/USA (Expedition Co-Leader)
Sammy Mansikka – Finland (Expedition Co-Leader)
Jose Ferro – Colombia
Damien Francois – Belgium
Robert Kay – USA
Liudmila Mikhanovskaia – Russia
Ville Sutka – Finland

Climbing Sherpas
Pasang Awongcho Sherpa (Sirdar)
Kami Neru Sherpa
Chongba Sherpa
Pasang Nima Sherpa
Sange Sherpa
Kitchen Sherpas
Da Pasang Sherpa (Head Cook)
Pemba Ngtar Sherpa
Pasang Lhapka Sherpa
Bir Bhada



GPS-tracks from the trek

Day 1: Arughat – Tatopani
Day 2: Tatopani – Lopka
Day 3: Lopka – Ganesh BC
Trek out, day 1: Ganesh BC – Domje
Trek-out, day 2: Domje – Philllim
Trek-out, day 3: Phillim – Machhakhola
Trek-out, day 4: Machhakhola – Sotikhola

Samuli’s tweets from the expedition

26th Oct 2012
On kyllä aika lailla perhosia vatsassa näin Ganeshille lähdön kynnyksellä! Huomenna bussilla Arughatiin ja siitä sit ylihuomenna etiäpäin.

27th Oct 2012
Greetings from Arughat at the trailhead! What a terrible 9hr drive it was but how beautiful it is in this part of Nepal! Simply stunning!

28th Oct 2012
Lounas Lidingissa! Saa nahda mita tulee ja kuka dal bhatit laittaa? Tenavat pyorii jaloissa ja mummo tuhannen pollyissa! Olut on kylmaa!

28th Oct 2012
Ja onpa todella kaunista! Olisko sittenkin Annapurna Circuitia hienompaa? Ja sainpa muuten koko syyskauden parhaan dal bhatin Arughatissa!

28th Oct 2012
Tatopani ja yksinkertainen majapaikka! Yhteismajoitus isannan vieressa huoneessa, jossa ei savulta nae sangyn jalkopaasta toiseen paahan.

28th Oct 2012
Kind of a long day from Arughat to here. ’Impossible’, the locals said in Liding. Had good wash at the local hotwater springs here.

29th Oct 2012
Another long day from Tatopani to Lokpa at mouth of Tsum valley! Think I’ll try to reach basecamp tomorrow. What a wild part of Nepal it is!

30th Oct 2012
Ganesh basecamp ja aivan liian pitka paiva takana! Nousua 1900m:sta 4050m:iin ja km:ja 35. Ja karttahan oli aivan pielessa ja eksyilya oli.

31st Oct 2012
Technical problems at Ganesh BC. The valley is too deep to connect on bgan. Can’t do emails now! Will only update on Twitter.

31st Oct 2012
Phil, Awongcho, Kami, Chongba, Pasang Nima & Sange blasted up scouting the route up to 5000m and fixed it to most parts. what a jumpstart!

31st Oct 2012
Teknisia probleemia; laakso liian syva eika saada signaalia bgan:illa. Emailit ei kulje, eika saada kuvia. Twitter toimii satelliitilla ok!

1st Nov 2012
Lazy day at Ganesh BC. Did a lwalk up the valley to scout other possible ways up Ganesh 1. Good day however! Surrounded by good people.

3rd Nov 2012
Lepailya beississa. Ryhma kavi ykkosessa (5000m) eilen. Oma paiva meni kuumeillessa ameebaa pois. Huomenna ylos ja reittia eteenpain.

4th Nov 2012
Tanaan etsittiin reittia suunnitellusta ykkosleirin paikasta ylos ja harjanteelle. Umpikuja ja liialliset kivivyoryt tuli vastaan 5500m:ssa.

4th Nov 2012
Huomenna kannetaan muutama kilometri koytta alas ja lahdetaan tutkimaan seuraavaa vaihtoehtoa laakson toisessa paassa. Kegarne!

4th Nov 2012
First defeat. Extremely difficult and dangerous climbing stopped us at 5500m on NW-ridge route. Now scaling other options. All difficult.

5th Nov 2012
Retrieved rop&gear from intended camp 1 on NW-ridge. Head of the valley dangerous due to serac-falls. Looking for new approach to NW-ridge.

7th Nov 2012
Found access to reach NW-ridge! Descended down to 3900m and climbed to 5500m! Got views to summit (7420m) but don’t know what’s in between?

10th Nov 2012
e don’t seem to find a safe way to get up this thing. Something about her being sacred and not letting anyone approach her summit..

11th Nov 2012
Finishing the expedition! Ville, Mila, Robert&Jose choppered out this morning. Phil, Damien, staff and I are trekking out from 14th onwards.

12th Nov 2012
Terkut Ganesh Himalin perusleirist?Kylm?ku fan! Muistakaa Suomen Alppikerhon 50v-juhlallisuudet 1-2.12.! Infot

14th Nov 2012
Left Ganesh basecamp and made it to Domje at 2500m. Thank goodness for warmth! 45 mules and 13 porters accompanying us on way to Arughat.

15th Nov 2012
Street-party at Phillim’s mad-crazy!! Also saw dozens of langurs on the way here!

16th Nov 2012
Trekked down to Machhakhola today. This truly is a magnificent part of Nepal!

16th Nov 2012
Terkut Machhakholasta Nepalin Gorkhasta! Suomen Alppikerhon 50v-juhlallisuudet 1-2.12.! Tsekkaa info seuran sivuilta

17th Nov 2012
That’s it for this years trekking! Got back to Arughat and drive to Kathmandu tomorrow. Ain’t ’gonna walk s#%t until in Tanzania in Jan-Feb!

17th Nov 2012
Phil’s dispatches on our Ganesh 1 expedition are now all online!! Check them out and bookmark!

18th Nov 2012
Back in Kathmandu. Madness it was getting here today! Traffic and roads are terrifying. Kicking back for a couple days before flying home.

19th Nov 2012
Incredibly clear skies in Kathmandu these days. You don’t see snow-covered peaks of Langtang through your hotel window in Thamel too often!