Shisha Pangma 2012, April 28th – May 19th 2012


16.4. – 31.5.2013

Samuli joined Tomi Myllys (Fin) for Shisha Pangma in May 2012. Tomi travelled to Tibet earlier in April and Samuli joined him at basecamp on April 28th after leading a Finnish trekking group to Mt. Everest BC and Island Peak (6189 m.) summit.
Samuli and Tomi were at first planning to go for normal route up to central summit and from there access the knife-edge-ridge to main summit. Eventually they decided to join Carlos Pauner, Juanito Oiarzabal and Juanjo Garra for summit-push through Inaki Ochoa route. High-camp was put up at regular camp 3 site at 7200 m.

Summit-push was started in the morning of 11th and the timing seemed eventually too late regarding the length of the chosen route. The climbers reached a point at altitude of over 8000 meters. Samuli is thinking the ridge still went on for some distance to a point which seemed like main summit to him. However, it was getting significantly darker at this point and it was very difficult to estimate the distance properly.
While writing this (on June 24th 2013) there has been dispute referring some climbers claims whether they reached summit or not? Samuli’s conclusion is that he got to a point that was above the elevation of central summit (which could be seen from the route). He estimated that the main-summit would have been 50-70 horizontal meters and only a couple vertical meters further over a knife-edge ridge. It is, however, very difficult to estimate the exact distance due to darkness and altitude. As Samuli is uncertain about his location he is not claiming summit.

”Summit is where you can clearly notice that you are on the highest point of the mountain. Also, you should be able to point it out to yourself and make it clear which point is the highest when you eventually are on it. This time I can not confirm that. If it was not the summit, it certainly was very close to it. However, I am not claiming summit and will return for it when I have change.”

Tomi Myllys reached the same high-point with Samuli. No supplementary oxygen was used. Tomi and Samuli did not employ high-altitude sherpa or porters but operated by themselves above basecamp.

Photos are also viewable on our Facebook-page here!


Tweets sent during the expedition

27th Apr 2012
And Shisha Pangma expedition is on! Just arrived in Nyalam (3700m.). Driving to basecamp tomorrow! Great being on the road again!

28th Apr 2012
Arrived in Shish advanced basecamp, yay!! Started from KTM yesterday! Great catching up with Tomi Myllys. Looking forward to fun 2-3 weeks!

29th Apr 2012
Very windy on Shisha Pangma! Today’s been about planning on tactics. Aiming to climb to camp 1 (6300m.) on 1st and 2 (6700m.) the day after.

30th Apr 2012
Vapputerveiset Tiibetin ylangolta! Kovat tuulet nayttavat hieman laantumisen merkkeja, joten valmistaudumme vapunpaivan marssiin ykkoseen.

30th Apr 2012
Good meeting with all the other expeditions here in Shisha Pangma BC! Never bad thing to discuss everyones plans and objectives.

2nd May 2012
Laitettiin ykkosleiri 6100 metriin! Keli taalla ylhaalla viela tuulinen. Mulla joku keuhkoputkentulehdus, joten ei maailman mukavin nousu.

4th May 2012
Descending from C1. Tomi went to put up C2 at 6700. I’ve never felt worse; respiratorial inflammations don’t match w high-altitude climbing!

4th May 2012
Himalajakiipeily sucks ass! Vois vaihtaa vaikka snorklailuun. Pvan biisit: Raised Fist; some of these times, Hanzel und Gretyl; Sternkrieg.

5th May 2012
Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody is the best rock-song ever written. Case closed.

6th May 2012
Lepailya ja bronkiitin hoitelua Shisha Pangman perusleirissa.. Ei viela huiputuksia talla kaudella. Kovia tuulia ylhaalla edelleen.

8th May 2012
Summit-push is on on Shisha Pangma!! Several teams aiming for summit on 11th (incl Tomi and me)! Just settled in camp 1 at circa 6100 m.

9th May 2012
Shisha Pangma summit-push is on! Climbed through rough weather here in camp 2 at 6700 m. Supposed to have very short weather window on 11th.

9th May 2012
Shisha Pangma summit-push is on! Now in camp 2 at around 6700 meters! Aim to benefit of a super-short weather window on 11th.

10th May 2012
Long day through bad weather. However, reached camp 3 at around 7200 meters! Wish us luck for tomorrow!

12th May 2012
Shisha Pangman kiipeaminen jai muutamaa metria (20m?) vajaaksi. Yritimme Iñaki Ochoan reittia, joka osoittautui todella pitkaksi.

12th May 2012
…toisin sanoen, lahdimme huippuyritykseen liian myohaan suhteessa reitin pituuteen. Reissukertomusta tulossa Camun sivuille lahipaivina!

13th May 2012
Back in Shisha Pangma BC! Reached 8000m on Inaki Ochoa route on 11th! Got there too late in the afternoon to do the remaining summit ridge..

14th May 2012
Today’s been about packing down our basecamp. Leaving in the morning. Hoping to arrive in Kathmandu on Wednesday. Looking forward to warmth!

16th May 2012
Arrived in Kathmandu! What a trip! Do feel bad about not making it all the way. Learned a lot though. Anyone up for a re-run?

17th May 2012
Nepalissa on tänään lakkoiltu. Oma päivä sujahti huoltaessa ja pakatessa hitonmoinen kasa tavaroita varastoon. Kotiinpaluu lauantaina, Yay!

19th May 2012
Aah, Helsinki! How awkward it all seems after two months in the Himalayas!? ’Gonna need a couple days to blend in, for sure…